Seat Toledo does not start hot

Hello, I have a toledo 2.0 GL of the year 91, when this cold starts well and while this ignition I can turn around the world, but when I turn off it no longer starts again until three or four hours do not pass, we have reviewed the entire injection system in this case it is multipoint of the simultaneous intermittent type, everything seems fine, consumption when you walk is still the same as it was before the problem, we made a clean electric shots and nothing, I hope you can help me

The starting failure may be due to multiple things.

In the first place you have to make sure that the car continues to have a hot spark when it turns hot with the starter engine, to remove a spark plug and give candle to the key is quickly seen.

Discarded the electric theme, you can try to put a drizzle of gasoline by the gas butterfly when you give you the failure, if the engine starts, and stop, the problem is definitely injection.

And now the mess. If you say that it starts well and hot, it can not be as simple as the circuit does not maintain the injection pressure when you stop the car, because the anti -background valve of the pump, the pressure regulator that goes after it and before the filter, or the vacuum pressure regulator that is in the injection ramp next to the injectors are bad and do not close tightly.

In this way, when the car stops in normal conditions, gasoline should be at a pressure of about 2.5 to 3 bars in the tubes. In your case, the tubes stay at 0 bars, but full of gasoline.

This makes you start with the cold engine, gasoline is also cold and liquid, so that the pump immediately press the system and the failure goes unnoticed.

But when you start hot, if gasoline is not under pressure, the heat of the engine causes it to boil inside the tubes, causing them to empty completely. When you start the gasoline pump, the circuit has to load until the gasoline reaches the injectors.

To check this, just let the engine heat, stop it, leave it for a while and where it should fail when you start again, put the contact three or four times in a row without starting the car, (the characteristic buzz of the gasoline pump will be heard for a couple of seconds) in this way the circuit again of gasoline will be loaded.
Already then turn to start, if the engine starts, the failure is that.

Another thing that can also happen is that all the components are well and have some chopped tube, but it would smell gasoline and have it in progress would drip gasoline to the ground.

I hope it helps you.

Well, change the pumps, because this model carries two, one inside the tank and one under the floor and we follow nothing in them, may the problem be electric even if I spark? Let's see if I explain, the spark when it is working well is blue but when it does not start it is half reddish, I do not know if it is the right thing, the spark plugs get black and have read that it is due to a lot of gasoline without burn, the coil may be heated when he warms up, how to find out?

thank you

It is true, when the spark plugs are too cold or when the engine does not burn gasoline, spark plugs get black, rather, they are covered with soot.

If the theme of gasoline is proven, (the pumps should not necessarily change but rather check the pressure), it is a matter of spark.

To check the ignition coils, sparks are used, which is nothing other than an exposed electrode that is connected to the coil. If the coil is fine, you must make arches of one centimeter at least, of a bright blue color. If the coil is wrong, even if it spark you, it will not exceed 6 or 7 millimeters of spark and also the spark will come out purple.

Another thing, how are the spark plug cables? To me in a Toledo 1.8 16 valves had them badly and what I was doing is that when he heated he stopped slowed down, until one day at night I could see (and notice) how sparks jumped from the high to dough cables and my hand.

Well, at the end of everything, this is the

Toledo 2.0 solution of 92 has two temperature sensors in the Aguq hose that enters the engine, one black that goes for the instrument that eesta in the inner and a blue panel that is the one who tells the calculator the temperature that the car has.
Well this blue was open, not average any resistance value and in cold he must measure approximately 1800 OHM, hot this resistance drops about 200 ohm.
I could repair it by cleaning the docks and the metal that forms the resistance and now as new, not failed more the start.
It seems that the reason for not starting is that for the calculator I was always cold and sent more fuel that drown it, so the black smoke for the exhaust and the strong gasoline smell
I hope to help others