Did my hallway or electrical system died?

Hello. Great discovery for me this website, a very good contribution. I would like to tell you my case but before I think it is necessary to indicate my vehicle:
brand: Chevrolet
Origin: Use
model: Chevette Hatchback 5 doors
Year: 1978
mileage: 75,000 miles.
Status: Excellent, never crashed, excellent conservation status. 10 years saved
alternator: DELCO REMY 12V 63 AMPERES INCORPORATED.
Battery: Exide 12v 60 amperes. Three months of use.
Electrical equipment: All original, no additional accessory except radio with two speakers.
The problem is as follows. A year ago, this jewel took a circulation after having been saved for 10 years, the only detail was that his original factory alternator died. Therefore I attended a spare store where I got a reconditioned alternator whose characteristics indicated above. This vehicle has a voltmeter in the panel, which while circulating with daylight always remains in 14 volts or over this. I indicate daylight so that it is understood that the only electrical system that is running is a pioneer radio with two three -way speakers, in summary a normal and low consumption radio. In spite of working well I have noticed (with the help of another person) that when setting the reverse, although the backward lights light these increase their light intensity according to the accelerator and therefore the engine revolutions rise. The problem is when the vehicle circulates in need of more electricity consumption, that is, night. Let's translate everything that comes next with the vehicle in waiting revolutions, that is always more than 900 or 1,000 rpm. I turn on the main lights or foci (understand the big ones) and the sound of the radio is interrupted to immediately return, the voltmeter low immediately to no more than 9 or 8 volts. The vehicle's revolutions go up while I walk and everything returns to normal, stop at a traffic light or disk stop by waiting rpm and the voltmeter low again even getting off the radio to turn on again when I accelerate the vehicle, moreover it is saying that the large lights of the vehicle reach a very poor intensity. Not to mention lighting the flashing lights to bend, these do not even flash unless the revolutions are higher. With the waiting RPM vehicle or a little higher I linked the emergency lights and all the lights begin to decrease and increase their intensity according to the emergency lights. Finally, the next day I take the battery to connect it to a charger and it takes more than an hour to load it.
While the alternator was reconditioned, it changed coals, voltage regulatory box, tridiodes and rectifying box and follows the same. My query is as follows:
1) .- The most logical, my alternator simply died.
2) .- The electrical system of my vehicle is damaged.
I put the second option why it catches my attention that I turn on the lights, emergency lights or the rear glassonor and what is told, the sound of the radio stops to return two or three seconds later.
I hope you can help me.

I recommend that at night you disconnect your accumulator (battery) to verify if you do not have current leaks, if this is the case you need to find the problem either by a ground cable or by a swich of doors, grocery stores and even yourself audio system. So you say that you gave maintenance to the alternator I recommend that you change it to a new one since those rebuilt on some occasions generate voltage problems.

Look, it is not clear to me if your battery goes down during the night, if so, they can be two things or one of the two, that your alternator is not sending enough current (bone is not in an optimal state), that your battery no longer retains the load (it must be replaced). But we balla by the beginning, I agree with Scort7913, in the nocches your radius, interior spotlights and everything that consumes energy by minimal part of your installation; That is why everything must be turned off in your vehicle since a single focus as a small one generates a small spark when connecting your battery.
Now, we already check your electrical installation we ballast with your battery: in an electrical workshop they can check the density of your battery and tell you if your battery retains the load or you have to replace it this is very cheap; In that same place you can check the amount of current that comes out of the alternator and if it corresponds to the normal parameters (perhaps the current that the alternator sends is very low and does not support the consumption of your vehicle.
Now my personal opinion according to what you talk to us is that the alternator does not send enough current to support the needs of your vehicle, you have to re -apply it for one of greater capacity, but it is not more of the battery Short.

First, the first thing Check how much load sends your alternator, with everything on and rings, if this load is fine with everything off, that is to say, it has to send 13.5 volts approx in relief and with everything off, if this measurement is not good, it measures the load direct Battery to the positive of the alternator and try to see how you are doing, if the amperage or voltage meter does not work, which is this clock that you mention and gather their cables that is to say the two that reach the watch on the tracera part of the same and try if nothing works notes and continue trying things.

Extremely grateful for your answers. I take all the value, but also make my questions to perform the procedures more clearly:
1) .- According to what I know all the radios today are taking some current while the vehicle is off, either to keep the memory or even the time. Also the vehicle analog clock is always working for what is also taking run. I tell you this because at the time of doing the dark test of taking out the battery connectors and putting them back to see if it throws spark ……… .. I think it is logical that it will throw some sparks because the analogous clock and the radio are consuming me (normal (electricity. Please acclaim me this.

2
) .- Take to try the battery and this is in perfect condition, no problem. a bit better. The symptoms decreased by 50%, so I think I am sure it is the alternator although the voltmeter with the lights on the same falls, no longer to 8 or 9 volts but if at 12. I will wait anyway to the answers to the question one to perform the consumption test.
Thank you again.