Refrigerant and fan leakage does not work

Buno friends I have a series of things that can review:
first to clarify that if the electro does not start, it can be the fuse found in the CJ of fuses, it can also be the electro bulb that is found in the radiator and they can be checked, it is also possible to be the possibility that the temperature sensor called etc.
or simply the carbon of the fan electric motor.

The fuses are checked with a multitester in continuity.
The sensors are placed in a resipient with hot water and the resistance is measured.

I also remember that you check the engine oil, because if the NIBEL goes down and there is no bisible escape then you can be filtering towards the cylinders and that is very bad.
To check it, it is simple, heat a can to a high temperature and then let it fall a jot of vehicle oil if it begins to jump is contaminated with water, the logic is that the water has a lower point of evullic than the oil and when it reaches that point it evaporates and separates from this the oil for this the oil begins to move.

I hope these tips are something and anything let me know.

Having a starting does not say that vehicle you have to save if it is only purged and nothing more, if the elctro does not first start fuses if they walk well, then you look for the bulb if it brings it from there important that you tell us that vehicle we talk, we bridge it and see if they start if you do not start connecting the direct ventilodor to battery to see if it is not melted. Check out the oil to see if it is emulted, if this is a cylinder head, if you do not check the amount of steam in the exhaust.

Hi Kikemec,
thanks for your contribution and help. The car I talk about (my car) is a skoda Felicia Glx 1.3, like the image of my profile but not tuning.
I will take your suggestions and I will try or investigate, although all information (videos, links, photos, etc) will come great because I am starting in this repairing a car, at least in their most common breakdowns.

Greetings companion and thanks again for your help

Hello, Toppo.
If there are traces of oil in the refrigerant fluid, it is because the joint of the cylinder cover (or cylinder head) has been burned, and both liquids are mixed, the water is evaporating, being less viscose and reaching faster at the boiling temperature than the oil.
If the electrventilator does not turn on, it can be due to various factors: 1) The electro engine is burned (discarding this directly connecting it to the battery). 2) The thermostat of the vehicle is "glued" (closed, and does not open), and the bulb that the water temperature is to turn on to turn on the hot water, so it does not turn on. 3) The electrventillator bulb is broken (trying it by making a "bridge" in the bulb / the electro contacts should turn on). 4) The refrigerant fluid circuit is poorly purged (it has air bubbles inside), making it impossible for the electro sensing bulb to correctly the liquid temperature and turn on the fan.

I hope you help you these ideas that I give you. luck!

Greetings from Córdoba, Argentina.

It may not be necessary to replace the cylinder head; But change the joint between it, and the motor block. Surely the cylinder head will need a rectification, and it is something that I recommend doing shortly, I do not advise you to continue using the vehicle like that, because the damage can be aggravated, to the point of melting the engine.
The same with the cooling system, a vehicle that does not work its electro -ventilator should not be shot, and that the entire cooling circuit does not work perfectly.

Actually, the burned butt joint is nothing more than the result of the high temperatures at which the engine reached for not having its cooling,
therefore, both things would have to be repaired.
I know that things are complicated in Spain, and it is not my intention to complicate you making you repair this urgent, but unfortunately, your vehicle can be seriously damaged to continue rolling in those conditions.
Good luck!