Clio 1.9 D Sometimes it is heated

Thanks in advance for the help.
I have a 1.9D Clio that when it circulates on the road is going well, but if I stop and start soon, the temperature shoots me (as if the heat uploaded up) and it is also usually heated in climbs or walking through the city.
I have planned the cylinder head, put the New Board and removed the thermostat.
When the temperature rises does not enter the electrventilator, so I connect manually and give me the sensation that heating (which I give it to help lower the temperature) does not give enough heat (as if it does not correct the water well inside).
I have purged the circuit for the horror in the upper part, but I do not know if I will carry more, at least I have not seen them.
I thank you for all the advice.
Thank you.

First, the CLIO 19D rides engine F8Q or F8M, like the old kangoo, the 19 and the express from 96.

This fucking engine gives war precisely because it warms up more.

First look at the electro fuses, if you tell me that you light it manually, I do not know if you have sought current or if you have taken the one that reaches the fan. If the fan comes current, what has been screwed is the thermocontact that goes on the radiator. It is located on one of the radiator sides at the bottom, next to the lower sleeve that goes to the block.

To check this probe there are two forms:

1st Check the system and the fan, you put contact and bridge the terminals that reach the probe. The fan should work, if you don't have to look at the electro fuse.

2º Check the probe: you take the radiator's water (wait for it to be cold) I unscrew the radiator probe, limp a team and look continuity between the terminals, at room temperature there should be no bridge between the terminals but when heating it in a saucepan you must make the bridge between the terminals.

The thermostat, I tell you, it is not a good idea to remove the engine thermostat.

In the first place because you increase consumption and decrease the performance by causing unnecessary heat leaks in the engine because the thermostat does not open until the engine is not hot and especially in the city it does not open completely never except in summer because with a little water that fences the radiator it cools enough to keep the 85ºC to 90ºC which is what it should have.

If you remove it, the engine costs a fuck to reach its operating temperature. So the postcaling system continues to work to be the engine still cold, bluish white fumes occur because the diesel is completely burned, carbon in the exhaust valves ... in the end ...

to check a thermostat, you disassemble it, you put it in a saucepan with water and with a thermometer and heat in the house kitchen, a little before you break the water you will see the water you will observe how you open the water, you will see how you will see how you will see how you will And you add cold water closes in seconds.

The heating is simple, if the thermocontact of the electro does not jump, the water boils as in the saucepan, rises to the blanket in the form of steam and floods you the bubble sleeves, the steam does not refrigerate like the water so the heater does not heat how it is due. (In addition to noticing the presence of bubbles in the piring and in the expansion vessel, apart from the blood red color.

A suggestion, if you have planned the cylinder head and have put a new joint (and more it is worth) that you will have proven at pressure the verdaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

coc taken to clean the radiator

? Motor corrosion.

I hope I have served you something

Thanks Megabeat-1 and everyone else.
The theme of the fuses is ok.
Regarding the thermostat you are right, but it is for a specific reason until it solves the reason that causes heating and carried out for two reasons, one the preventive and another in case it could be part of the problem (the latter already discarded).
Regarding the squeeze squeeze ok with the dynamometric with the degrees, starting it, letting it rest and reapply everything according to indications.
Regarding the water, it is not dirty with the typical mud which does not mean that you cannot be right with the obstructed radiator that would be convenient to verify.
Anyway, if you think of any more reason, I am open to everything to the moment that disarms to review everything.
Thanks and greetings

Change the thermocontact of the electro -ventilator because it has 99'9% of the possibilities that you are touching your noses out there.

When I told you about checking, I did not refer to checking the tightening pairs (although it does not hurt to do it), I was referring to the rectifier, when a cylinder head arrives, it submerges it in water and with the help of some suction cups it puts compressed air to the lodging of the valves to see if there are fissures in the ass and be able to rule out later breakdowns.

If a fissure occurs, for example, in a precámara or in a valve seat, the following occurs. The pressure of the gas during the combustion of the diesel causes a part of them to be worth the water cameras, (just as when the butt joint is burned), the gas evicted the water inside the Culatay the engine does not cool.

One thing very similar to this is the one that happens to you when you comment that the heating does not work properly, and in your case it is because as I told you the water boils, and the water vapor goes up by throwing out into the water of the cylinder head so that the engine is further heated.

But returning to the previous probe of the Pocha electro -ventilator !!
Change or check OK contacts?

I hope I have clarified your doubts a bit.

Fuck male, one gets bored of so much explanation, if you had to explain how and when the WV TFSI chaplestas work, I would have to look for a 500 gigas hard drive for your comment only.

Uncle that it is well that you explain it, but it suggests the man who only fails a temperature valve.

Uffff, they give sweat to one of listening to you (read in our case)

greetings to all

especially you megabeat: roll: