First, the CLIO 19D rides engine F8Q or F8M, like the old kangoo, the 19 and the express from 96.
This fucking engine gives war precisely because it warms up more.
First look at the electro fuses, if you tell me that you light it manually, I do not know if you have sought current or if you have taken the one that reaches the fan. If the fan comes current, what has been screwed is the thermocontact that goes on the radiator. It is located on one of the radiator sides at the bottom, next to the lower sleeve that goes to the block.
To check this probe there are two forms:
1st Check the system and the fan, you put contact and bridge the terminals that reach the probe. The fan should work, if you don't have to look at the electro fuse.
2º Check the probe: you take the radiator's water (wait for it to be cold) I unscrew the radiator probe, limp a team and look continuity between the terminals, at room temperature there should be no bridge between the terminals but when heating it in a saucepan you must make the bridge between the terminals.
The thermostat, I tell you, it is not a good idea to remove the engine thermostat.
In the first place because you increase consumption and decrease the performance by causing unnecessary heat leaks in the engine because the thermostat does not open until the engine is not hot and especially in the city it does not open completely never except in summer because with a little water that fences the radiator it cools enough to keep the 85ºC to 90ºC which is what it should have.
If you remove it, the engine costs a fuck to reach its operating temperature. So the postcaling system continues to work to be the engine still cold, bluish white fumes occur because the diesel is completely burned, carbon in the exhaust valves ... in the end ...
to check a thermostat, you disassemble it, you put it in a saucepan with water and with a thermometer and heat in the house kitchen, a little before you break the water you will see the water you will observe how you open the water, you will see how you will see how you will see how you will And you add cold water closes in seconds.
The heating is simple, if the thermocontact of the electro does not jump, the water boils as in the saucepan, rises to the blanket in the form of steam and floods you the bubble sleeves, the steam does not refrigerate like the water so the heater does not heat how it is due. (In addition to noticing the presence of bubbles in the piring and in the expansion vessel, apart from the blood red color.
A suggestion, if you have planned the cylinder head and have put a new joint (and more it is worth) that you will have proven at pressure the verdaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
coc taken to clean the radiator
? Motor corrosion.
I hope I have served you something