Problem with the starter engine.

Good to all. It is a Ford Transit. 2.5 D, 1991. Having battery stopped starting. The starter engine rotates correctly but not gears with the outside of the thermal motor inertia steering wheel. So when I act the start with the key, the starter engine sounds accelerating in vain. I have removed the starter engine and I have checked it with a battery and effectively tour. I suppose it is some problem with the disagreement device (blessed or similar type). What do you recommend me? Is it better to buy a used scrapping engine and replace it? Does anyone have an idea of ​​how much can cost? And take the starter engine to a self -electricity workshop? Can reparation be very expensive? What do you recommend? Thanks in advance for everything ...

greetings from Granada.

Hi Guanaga, welcome to the forum.
There is no need to spend a lot of pasta.

Since you have the starter engine outside the van, bring it again and observe a detail the pinion must appear at the same time that the starting starter tour. If the boot engine does not "spit" the pinion is because the fork that is going just behind the Béndix has been broken.

Once this check is done, you can disassemble the start and repair the failure, if you are not very skilled in the matter, I recommend that you take it to a spare parts house and request a repaired starter engine.

These boot engines are more expensive than those of the scrapping, but they have the advantage that they are repaired by official services and have a guarantee as if they were new, many workshops opt for this solution and I consider it the best (if you are not too clear of clear) they are usually around € 150 approx.

Another cheaper option of course is that of scrapping, (around € 60) what happens is that it is a matter of luck. The scrapping to which I go, for example, have a 3 -month guarantee in the pieces (scroll the tower).

I am a mechanic I can know how the starter is as soon as you see it and know if the tip of the tip is worn out or if it has few brushes or such ... but if you don't know this you can touch anything.

The other option that you have left is to take the starter engine to an electricity workshop and there you can surely do three things, or they bring you a repaired starter engine and charge it without discounts + the portes, (€ 200) or ask you for the piece that has been broken and they charge you the piece more labor (and it comes to cost more or less than the engine repaired between € 100 and 150).
If they are postbysitted fudge, they take a scrapping engine and repair yours with the drain motor parts of the scrapping.

Greetings and hopefully I don't give you much war!

At the moment I will try the starter engine again to check if "spit" the pinion. Because if I have not understood badly, when acting it, it must go out, and return to the interior when it revolutionizes too much?

I explain, when you check the starter engine outside the vehicle, what the pinion should do is move forward, until it is parallel to the window in the front of the start. The pinion must be kept advanced all the time that the starting of the starter engine lasts turning to the resting position as soon as you cut the current at the start.

The starter engine has another cylindrical body with two fat screws and a small terminal, (the starting relay or also automatic called). If you have disassembled the start of the van, you will know that one of those screws comes the direct battery positive, the other screw is just below the first and is connected to the electric motor input and the small terminal comes the positive cable from the key.

To do the test, hold the starter engine on a bank screw, put the dough to the motor housing, connect the positive to the fat screw and bridge another positive to the terminal, at that time, the start must be launched while the attack pinion comes forward.

If you play with the positive clamp in the Gordo screw below, what you are testing is only the operation of the electric motor, not of the complete start, therefore the attack pinion will do what you comment, give a blow to the next and go back to the resting position even if the electric motor continues to turn.