Mercedes 300 E 1987 does not start

Good I have a Mercedes in my workshop and I do not have to start, it is the year 1987 injected, it wets my spark plugs, but to buy the cables they have a spark, now a Papoco is delayed, but this vehicle is with a chain so it is that I do not think it is the point and I do not know if the distributor possesses Abance, I saw it and it did not seem to me, because the rotor goes with the cam, if they will help me, if it will help me.

Have you proven that the high cables are placed in order?

Another thing, how is the carboncillo of the high distributor lid and the tip of the rotor? Incidentally, look at the crab of the rotor of the coat in the camshaft because in Opel, for example, the keterus was split and despite the fact that the distribution was fine, the coach did not turn around and did not distribute current.

If you have strobe in the workshop, put it on the high cable that leaves the coil to the one in the cylinder 1 or 6 and turns. If there are flashes there is spark and apart, with the flashes you will see the spark jump point on the crankshaft pulley.

All the best.

Hello, if it is the body (124) you carry ke-jetronic injection, you have to check the gasoline pressure (5.3 to 5.5) bar. And the temperature sensor (325 ohm at 80 cº). If everything is correct the failure is in the injection body.
PD: In these models the gasoline pressure regulator is usually spoiled.
Greetings.

Hello megababat_1, look I have a spark in the cables and fuel in the cameras, the problem is that it wets the spark plugs and does not start, now the state of the lid and the rotor leaves enough to be desired, but they throw me a spark, the order of ignition is correct and the owner changed the injection body, because it has a metallic cover with 6 canyeries one for each injector, what is not very clear that it is very clear that it is very clear that it is very clear that it is very clear to The spark is not as powerful as it would have to be, because when checking it I noticed that it is in a white color, the corduroy was the next, the client, it is fine in his car, after a tiepò le Costava that left and this was increased with the passage of time, until one day I no longer started and wet the spark plugs, but there is the spark

Well, the colleague Eljota is quite well aimed at the fuck ... because it gave me a lot of war a 300 of the year 81 that had Ke not ke and was the regulator of the injection heating phase.

Let's see, the first thing you have to have current in the spark plugs, to see if they get a good blow of volts, you just have to remove the high cable that goes from the coil to the one of theco and decapucharo. You put it near something metallic, but at a distance between 7 and 10 millimeters and turns with the key.

From there they have to leave rays, not sparks, rays !! Below you repeat the operation with the high cylinder cables, because it is very easy for you to have spark losses due to the cover of the Coin, in addition you may even be cracked somewhere. If there are cracks in the silicone coating of the cables, it is easy to escape mass by them. (I had this problem with a Toledo 1.8 16V and I almost went crazy).

If you don't want to complicate your beard, you change lid and rotor and charge them to the client (you don't do anything more because they are already screwed).

Then you cancel the injection gasoline supply and turn with the 6 spark plugs removed to air the compression cameras. (The fastest thing is to remove the taquimetric relay or the gas pump connectors) Next, you put the spark plugs and eat it through the probe plate (the large plate with an arm that is under the air filter) and turn again.

If the engine tries to start and stops, it means that we walk well from spark, so you must restore gasoline supply and test the start. Two things can happen:

1st that starts we are lean and we have fixed it! You let the hot CO level check and check.

2nd that does not start and then it is time to look at the injection.

Now I put another post with injection checks.