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TURBO A3 TDI

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16 years 7 months before #5417 by manual-mecanica
TURBO A3 TDI Published by Manual-Mecanica
hello everyone. I have a problem with Turbo sometimes when you want the car runs out of power either cold or hot and there is no way to pass the 3000rpm and if you have to climb a slightly long slope of 80 does not pass. When he fails, I stop the engine, I already started miles. I have changed the caudalimetro for the symptoms and why do they usually fail from this piece, but at two days he failed again. What probma can I have?
Thanks for advancement for your advice

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16 years 7 months before #5427 by manual-mecanica
Manual-Mecanica Answer on the Re: Turbo A3 TDI
Moists very black when this happens? Do you have the black car culera? Do you hear a pssssssss from time to time?

The ruling may have it in some sleeve of those who go from the turbo to the intercooler and the intercooler to the admission manifold, or that you have the intercoleer cracked (less likely, especially if you have not given any blow).

To check it, you have to keep the engine accelerated at about 2000 rpm and pass the hand through the pipes, it is easy for the sleeve to be with the EGR is cracked and when the turbo blows strong, the slit opens, the air goes out, the flowmeter error gives the flowmeter, the fault witness and the car \ "is shit \".

If so, you did not find the failure, with the engine stopped and cold, the escape with a rubber glove and packing tape (seal). Then take away the rubber sleeve that comes out of the flowmeter and do the same (put another glove and pretend so that the air does not come out).

Then you put compressed air with the help of a compressor and a gun or a gossip of giving air to the wheels do not pass from 1'5 bar). And with the help of a spray of cleaning crystals full of water and dishwasher, spraying on all the intake tubes and on the intercooler. If bubbles come out from somewhere, it is because you have an air leak, and that is the problem.

Another thing that also happens is that the EGR is seized and open, so that the exhaust gases pass to admission without any control.

To check it, with the engine stopped and cold, you disassemble the EGR from the intake manifold and with the help of a very fine sheet, (such as a drink of soda) you make a joint equal to the one it has, but without the gas passage hole. The idea is to plug it to avoid the exhaust gases to admission.

Next, you go to try the car and if you stop giving the failure, you have the problem in the EGR, now you have two options:

1st Leave it as it is, (with the blind joint), mechanically it is not harmful, it even is one more tad, but it is more polluting because it produces nitrogen oxides.

2º Buy an EGR valve and assemble it.

Greetings and you'll tell me.

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16 years 6 months before #5444 by manual-mecanica
Manual-Mecanica Answer on the Re: Turbo A3 TDI
Hello K Tal, I have given me that problem in a Leon 110CV and in the Cordoba 90cv and the problem was the carboncilla that had the admission collector and the turbo since the turbo is of variable flow and the blades within it are taken and cannot be opened to increase the air flow. Cleaning these pieces you already have the problem solved.
all the best.

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16 years 6 months before #5448 by manual-mecanica
Manual-Mecanica Answer on the Re: Turbo A3 TDI
Hello thanks for your subjects now I only have time to be able to check them and see if it is something of that but I will have to take the car to the workshop, because circulating so is a danger

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16 years 2 months before #7437 by manual-mecanica
Manual-Mecanica Answer on the Re: Turbo A3 TDI
K Tal, I had that same problem for a long time on an A3 TDI 110 hp and is that on the highway or already starting from 120 or 130 km/h. Speed ​​(in city everything was correct and the car was won, the car was suddenly without strength and I had to give the contact key back and forward so that it would catch up normal strength and so several times, although in the end I stopped doing it, taking more or less time in it.
It turns out that the problem was according to each other: bad flow, egr badly, escape into some sleeve and erroneous signal, ... all wrong. It was completely solved by putting the car in a workshop with a good diagnostic machine and saw, as Betis above says, that the problem was the dirt accumulated in the turbo (variable geometry) that prevented its correct operation, caused overpressure in the same Emergence to the switchboard that was responsible for cutting = lack of power. That is why, when removing and contacting the system was reset and everything went well.
Solution: Disassemble and clean the turbo and surrounding and pay 400 eurazos to the specialized workshop; Of course, now you go 100% and never more problems.
greetings

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